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Мода как лирика: как написать нескучный отзыв о коллекции


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Мода как лирика - как написать нескучный отзыв о коллекции

Мода как одна из категорий искусства требует творческого подхода. Пока у всех в памяти свежи показы Ukrainian Fashion Week, и уже надвигаются события Mercedes-Benz Kiev Fashion Days, мы даем пару дельных советов, как писать поистине лирические (и тем же ценные) отзывы об увиденных коллекциях.Мода как лирика - как написать нескучный отзыв о коллекции (12)

Лирические отступления в тексте должны сделать материал цепляющим, интересным, «вкусным»

В любом дизайнерском показе есть костяк, о котором обычно пишут в пресс-релизе, и есть свободный сектор, в который журналист и любой заинтересованный вкладывает свои впечатления. Так и получается обзор коллекции — объективное в синтезе с субъективным: фактаж в сочетании с впечатлениями и эмоциями, которые вы пропускаете через себя. Понятие лирики в заголовке стоит не зря: между лирикой и прозой в жанровом отношении — огромная пропасть отличий. Но в любом художественном тексте есть место лирическим отступлениям — они-то и должны сделать ваш материал особенным, цепляющим, интересным, «вкусным».

Мода как лирика - как написать нескучный отзыв о коллекции (10)

Чем позже вы сядете за текст, тем больше пресс-релиз будет сквозить в каждой его строчке

Когда вы садитесь за отзыв о коллекции, спросите себя, зачем вы вообще пишете этот материал. Если для сухой отчетности (здесь возникает вопрос — для кого?), то дальше вам читать, пожалуй, не стоит. Если же вы по-настоящему хотите вложить в текст часть себя, стоит особенно над этим потрудиться. Во-первых, не откладывайте обзор в долгий ящик — пишите по «горячим следам». Когда в памяти живы все ассоциации и впечатления, написать отзыв гораздо легче, чем по прошествии нескольких дней, а то и недели-полторы (как это часто бывает).  В данном случае, когда вы пишете максимально скоро после показа, пресс-релиз используется лишь как вспомогательное средство. Чем позже вы сядете за текст, тем больше пресс-релиз будет сквозить в каждой строчке. Эмоциональные отступы в обзоре дают возможность громче заявить собственным голосом о том, что в коллекции дизайнеру удалось лучше всего.

Мода как лирика - как написать нескучный отзыв о коллекции (3)

Одни только описания и пережевывание лейтмотивов похожи на сухой пересказ пресс-релиза

Как бы то ни было, обзор коллекции это не школьное сочинение, и писать чистой воды «отсебятину» тоже не стоит. Субъективность в вопросе написания обзорных материалов должна сводиться к тому, насколько работает ваша образность мышления: с чем вы проассоциируете определенный силуэт, принт, форму. А фразы в стиле «нравится-не нравится», конечно, оставьте для обсуждения с подругами за коктейлем. Фактические знания о том, как создавалась коллекция, что взято за основу, и чем руководствовался дизайнер, дают вам  возможность более четко, полно и широко развернуть любую мысль. С другой стороны, описательные характеристики и пережевывание лейтмотивов создают впечатление, будто вы сами ничего по этому поводу не думаете, а только пересказываете материал, написанный пресс-службой. Зачем вам это нужно?

Мода как лирика - как написать нескучный отзыв о коллекции (2)

Чем больше вы знаете о самом бренде, дизайнере, тем легче говорить о коллекциях, даже не заглядывая в пресс-релиз. Вероятность того, что вы не угадаете и промахнетесь с ассоциациями, довольно мала. Но даже в этом случае хорошо написанный материал, основа которого не совпадает с изначально дизайнерской задумкой, претендует, как минимум, на особый взгляд, новый угол зрения. И это всегда интересно.

Мода как лирика - как написать нескучный отзыв о коллекции (4)

Не ищите глубинные смыслы в коллекции, которая на них даже близко не претендует

Две самые распространенные ошибки, которые совершают молодые авторы: 1) стараются придерживаться только фактов; 2) излишне растекаются мыслью по древу. Первая основана на страхе ошибиться и написать глупость, вторая — на чрезмерном желании высказать что-нибудь эдакое. Из двух зол больше второе: все знают, что черную кошку в темной комнате найти очень сложно, особенно если ее там нет. Искать глубинные смыслы в коллекции, которая на них и близко не претендует, — это большущий промах. Ассоциируйте, проводите параллели, но боже вас упаси высасывать из пальца то, чего нет.

Мода как лирика - как написать нескучный отзыв о коллекции (5)

Перечисляя в обзоре использованные дизайнером силуэты, оттенки и новые решения, вы тем самым проговариваете возможные тренды. Чаще всего потом их сводят в одном финальном материале, подводящем итог под всеми коллекциями, которые довелось видеть. Дизайнеры, не сговариваясь, создают вещи, которые перекликаются по настроению, — задача журналиста отследить это, а также правильно интерпретировать то, что автор коллекции показывает на подиуме.

Мода как лирика - как написать нескучный отзыв о коллекции (8)

Не старайтесь сказать все и сразу, не используйте все известные вам эпитеты и не пишите так, чтобы «всем понравилось»

Все приходит с опытом, равно как и схватывание на лету идей, которые дизайнер выпускает на подиум. Но и у начинающего автора, и у опытного есть общее качество — образность мышления. У кого-то она развита больше, у кого-то меньше, но именно здесь и раскидывается непаханное поле деятельности, на котором можно взращивать свои лирические отступления. Все ваши метафоры, аллегории, литоты и гротески найдут свое отображение в отзыве о частичке искусства, к которому у вас есть доступ. Главное во всем этом калейдоскопе ассоциаций не стараться сказать все и сразу, не использовать все известные вам эпитеты и не писать так, чтобы «всем понравилось», — на таком хромом коне вы далеко в журналистике не уедете.

Фото: washingtonpost.comjakandjil.comglobaltvedmonton.com, style.comfashionista.com

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